Movements
What has the last couple weeks included you ask? Monsoon season brings flooded sois, people dashing for cover and (thankfully) slightly cooler weather.
Aside from work, I managed to move to a new apartment closer to work in a new building that isn't completely finished but more comfortable somehow. I realized after moving out that the old place had an odd atmosphere that I couldn't completely adjust to. Anyhow, if anyone wants to mail me anything, kindly send it to the following address:
Baan Vichien, Apartment 3B
220 Sukhumvit 49/12
Klongton Nua, Wattana
Bangkok, 10110, Thailand
Last week, I met up with my some friends from DC and my Columbia friend, Aaron to watch the U.S. play Ghana at a bar called the Woodstock which claim to have the best burgers in Bangkok. I'd have to say the entire crowd was pro-USA, seeing as they were almost all foreign service officers. Interesting to say the least. Aaron, who'd lived in West Africa for a while was cheering for Ghana, and I, having no significant loyalties for the US, thought hey, you know, I should cheer for someone else. Besides, given the US' semi atrocious play, it was pretty easy to cheer for the other side. It did make us outsiders, and really the burgers were not all that. I should have gone around the block and had a set dinner for 150 baht (that's about 4 bucks, includes drinks, meal, and dessert). I think that was the largest number of Americans I'd seen in one place in a long time.
I also decided to take a quick trip to Vietnam for the weekend. AirAsia, cheap and quick, if not for their godawful delays. Alas, I went to Hanoi to visit a friend, Jenny, and just to get out of the bustles of Bangkok (hereforth referred to as BKK). Highlights include: Eating a lot, ie, we buffeted, wandered, visited the sites I'd heard about since being a child and tried to relax. Also was told by the passport control/customs officials on my way home that I should come back soon, help out the country (which includes marrying a good Vietnamese man, who they could introduce me to very easily).
But, what can I say about Hanoi? It's a growing metropolis that is slowly being transformed with large malls. It is still significantly slower than BKK, has nice walks, beautiful old French architecture, lakes, parade grounds around the government buildings with their Communist slogans. The people have an entrepreneur spirit. In all, there is an energy, a hope, an optimism of new beginnings that is also in BKK but is much more subdued as though BKK turns its shoulder and goes, "oh, we've been there, we've had that, we'll continue as we are." Hanoi on the other hand, as Jenny and I were talking, is how BKK might have been like in the early 1990s, there are literally building projects everywhere, like the rest of the country. Jenny's apartment building is part of a larger project called Ciputra International City, this absolutely huge complex that is still being built. It will, when finished boast Asia's largest mall as well. I'm conflicted, it's progress definitely, but can it be done in such a way that doesn't lead to the lost of the old, the culture leaving only ardent consumerism that as my Japanese coworker has said, is a major problem in Japan? In BKK, there's a new mall called Siam Paragon which, in my opinion is a bit scary with its glittering "river inside the mall" Hermes, Gucci, blah blah blah.. who does it serve? The newly wealthy? Definitely, it is a sign that there are some that can afford it, but if all the old gets thrown out to welcome in the new, than what is left? Really, do you need another 8 story mall?
People ask, "what is it like to go back home?" - I don't think I can answer that yet, it was nice that I could be understood and could understand and communicate with others, but it was also a bit odd. I'll have to digest it a bit more and perhaps offer some insight to those select few who care about my inner thought processes. :-)
Anyhow, enjoy the photos.
Hanoi
Rao Rak Nai Luang
Thailand, a country of monarchs, temples, monks, spicy foods, the perpetual sound of the tuk- tuks, heat, humidity, elephants, splendour. Only so often do you see people in the states congregrate en mass for a celebration. Generally it happens during a tragedy. It's quite fortunate that my visit coincides with the King's 60 Year Celebrations Commemorating the 60 years he's been on the throne. And oh what celebrations they are.
The government declared June 9th, the 12th and 13th public holidays to commemorate the king's rule, forming a 5 day weekend full of public speeches, ceremonies in the Royal Palace, fireworks, and to top it off a Royal Barge Procession down the Chao Phraya River. To read more about the king and the royal barge, snippets can be found here:
King of Hearts,
Royal BargeWhat is it like to view the barges? I'm still trying to digest. In this burgeoning cosmopolitan that is Bangkok, the royal barges harken back to tradition, the past, the glories of empire and royalty. At the same time, the barge chants make the procession distinct from any other place. I kept thinking of oarsmen and barges a la Roman drum beats. Instead the barge chants hold a cerebral calming feeling as opposed to the relentless beat of Roman drums. What broke the haunting splendour of it all was that, although wonderful to be right at the river's edge, you can see everything the oarsmen do ... including whipping out their cellphones at the end of the route.
Nonetheless, against the backdrop of the river and Wat Kalayanamit at dusk is a magical sight. Even better? The sea of yellow shirted Thais who adore their King and clapped as each barge passed by.
Royal Barge Procession PhotosThis was of course in stark constrast to the night I had before.
A good place to stay in Bangkok is the Atlanta Hotel located on Sukhumvit Soi 2. More information on the hotel can be found here:
The AtlantaGreat old school foyer, restaurant, free internet, pool, back garden, and pretty cheap. Even better, a sign over the door explicitly says, "NO SEX TOURISM." Seeing as it's a couple blocks down from the girly bars near Nana, this is quite welcome. I ventured there with a friend to meet an acquaintance from Columbia for dinner. The friend I was with happened to be a Caucasian male. The minute we walked into the foyer I could feel all eyes in the reception area turn to stare, however we immediately found the person we were to meet, so we all sat down and ate dinner. All was well, chatting away over prolonged drinks there and in the back garden. Afterwards we all decided that it was so bloody hot that a nice splash in the pool would be good. The splash was quite enjoyable, I have to say, and highly recommended if anyone is ever in hot humid countries.
Upon entering the reception area again, the receptionist turns to my friend and says in a brusque voice, "Excuse me sir," then turns to me and in an even more rude voice starts semi shouting at me in Thai. Of course I stared blankly at her, not understanding a word. She finished her tirade and stared at me staring at her. I say, "I'm sorry, I'm not Thai, I don't understand what you're saying." To this, she says grudgingly, turning back to my friend, "can't use pool, must pay 100 baht, not guest here." Whatever, we pay and leave. Immediately my friends start laughing and say, "I kept waiting for them to kick us out. They are so racist towards Asians especially mixed race couples. They won't even let them come through the front door because they think they're just sex tourists." So that's right, of course they thought I was a prostitute, freaking conservative German owners and their even worse conservative Thai staff. Granted, fine I guess they're being super careful. BUT, after sitting there chatting away for 3 HOURS in ENGLISH, and being confused when ordering in the restaurant, I did not speak Thai, so yelling at me in Thai, is not really going to work. SO, it's a great place to go if you're not Asian, apparently even if you enter with just girls, and 1 happens to be Asian American you still can't go in.
Here's the question, what if it was an Asian guy and a non-Asian girl?
Sights
Sorry, will write a more substantive post after the weekend probably. Till then, here are a few photos.
Some sights
Excellent evening of food and drinks. I forgot my camera so couldn't take photos.
These are the two places, check it out.
Cabbages and Condoms (Matt, this is where it comes from)
Le Bua at State Tower (64th floor, 2nd tallest building in Bangkok, great view, US prices. Drinks on a terrace overlooking Bangkok? Excellent)
